What would you say best describes Hunter Schafer’s Vanity Fair Oscar party attire in three words?
Schafer was sure to draw attention with her bias-cut white silk skirt, one ivory-colored feather, and almost nothing else. On Sunday night, when word of her appearance spread on social media, the actress and model’s Google searches surged. Tens of thousands of people liked photographs of Schafer on Twitter right away, and her Instagram post has already earned over 2 million likes.
Schafer’s ensemble, though was obviously taken into consideration rather than merely producing a newsworthy event. The ensemble made its premiere earlier this month at the design brand Ann Demeulemeester’s presentation in Paris, straight from the Fall/Winter 2023 catwalk. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who has been the label’s creative director since December, created it.
Celebrity style works best when there is a backstory behind the look. Consider Kendall Jenner’s Bottega Veneta tights’ possible allusion to Edie Sedgwick or Paul Mescal’s cheeky nod to conventional masculinity in a simple white tank top.
For his first Ann Demeulemeester collection, De Saint Sernin drew inspiration from “fashion-making as an authentic act of self-involvement. With motifs of “authorship and autobiography” baked into the clothing (Sernin referred to his feather bandeaus as “quills” in the show notes), it was a love letter to the creator of the Belgian label, almost literally.
When Schafer wore these concepts of self-expression, self-love, and self-definition, they had new significance. being a transgender lady whose rise to prominence was tightly related to her gender identification. Her role as transgender adolescent Jules in HBO’s “Euphoria” was her big break. On the internet, Schafer’s physique is often scrutinized. The comments on Schafer’s Instagram postings often turn into public forums where individuals feel free (and ostensibly required) to raise sensitive issues related to the trans experience or question Schafer’s gender.
Schafer’s clothing has a long history of gender-neutral messages embroidered on it, which is only fitting. The company, which was established in 1985 by Ann Demeulemeester and her husband, Patrick Robyn, has a long history of producing gender-neutral clothing.
Prior to a retrospective exhibition of her work in Florence, Italy, Demeulemeester told Vogue, “I was interested in the tension between masculine and feminine, but also the tension between masculine and feminine within one person. The fact that each individual is unique is what makes them all so fascinating to me.
De Saint Sernin, known in the industry for his eponymous, gender-neutral label, presented his most recent co-ed collection at Ann Demeulemeester, bringing his androgynous worldview to all with fitted, romantic menswear silhouettes and sensual fabrics (think skin-tight mesh tops, leather, and open shirts made from a translucent organza material).
Schafer made it clear that she is still crafting her story and defining herself according to her own standards by wearing a quill across her breast. Those two outfits hold the whole narrative. The program notes quote De Saint Sernin as saying, “Thirty-six looks, each a heartfelt sentence.”
The striking outfit could end up being one of Law Roach’s last celebrity-style jobs. After 14 years of designing conversation-starting looks for celebrities including Zendaya, Bella Hadid, Anya Taylor-Joy, Ariana Grande, and Megan Thee Stallion, Roach revealed on Tuesday that he was leaving the business.